Traditional Christmas dinners in America typically include ham, turkey or roast beef
But when you think about the origins of the holiday – in places like Jerusalem, Bethlehem and Nazareth – the food traditions are quite a bit different.
Like so many restaurants along South Harlem Avenue, the menu at M’dakhan is at once familiar and mostly predictable.
“Hummus, baba ghannuj and the muthamawa…and then we have the salads – tabbouleh, fatoush,” said Muhammad Baste, co-owner of M’dakhan.
And here’s the thing they have no one else does: a smoker. Wood-fired, turning lamb shanks and beef ribs into soft, supple entrees tinged with rosy smoke rings. The name of the restaurant translates as “smoke” so many guests know what they’re in for.
“We are the first in town,” he said. “People want smoked lamb, smoked beef, beef ribs are one of the most popular items people desire.”
Aside from the slow-smoking out back, there is a serious grill program as well. Hardwood mesquite charcoal singes and sears kebabs of chicken and shrimp; lamb and beef.
“It gives it that mesquite taste. You get that flavor, comes out juicier, tender from the grill to the plate,” he said.
Lamb also appears in a classic dish – mensaf – featuring torn shards of bread topped with rice and then massive chunks of slow-cooked lamb covered in homemade yogurt; garnished with almonds and topped with paper-thin bread, they’ll even provide a side car of yogurt for more dousing at the table. You’ll need warm pita for all of those spreads; good thing they’re all baked fresh, to order.
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“So what we try to do is get a hot stone on there, so the flavor goes right through the bottom, cooks all the way through,” he said.
Make sure to try one of the sweetened fruit drinks or lemonades, but definitely finish with a coffee or bracing hot tea, because dessert is a no-brainer.
“Knafeh always for the win. Cheese with phyllo dough; it’s cooked over a flame, gives it that nice, crispy texture. We garnish it with pistachios, and then with some syrup to top it off,” said Baste.
Baste says he’s proud of his heritage, but not so tied to tradition that he can’t shake things up a bit.
“We are the younger generation; we’re putting a twist on things,” he said.
9115 S. Harlem Ave., Bridgeview
708-229-8855
