NBC Chicago's Food Guy Steve Dolinsky says there is nothing flashy about a relatively new restaurant in the South Loop. Just solid, well-executed classics - with a twist or two.
The restaurant’s marketing spiel promises Southern California supper club vibes, rooted in the 1930s. If that means liberally using beef fat, layering flavors with lots of texture and treating richness as a virtue rather than a vice, then so be it.
Don’t be fooled by the burger and fries. Because while it may look like something run-of-the-mill, this one has a housemade special sauce, aged Hook’s 5-year cheddar and sesame buns toasted in beef fat. Like everything else at Oliver’s – an understated space on an underdeveloped stretch of South Wabash Avenue – they’re focusing on elevating the familiar.
“I’m kind of a sucker for the classics, so we want to make food that is inviting and familiar,” said Chef Alex Carnovale.
Take bread and butter - for instance. Here, they first dunk thick slices of Publican Quality sourdough in…
“Crème fraiche, there’s a little bit of egg yolk in there and some truffle. So we batter it almost like a savory French toast, and that’s also griddled in beef fat. Then it’s served with a caramelized shallot butter that has thyme, creamed sherry, a little bit of brandy, chives,” he said.
And salad? Not so simple.
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“Greens from Vertical Acres Farm in Indiana; mustard vinaigrette; chickpeas that are fried with smoked pimentón de la vera, garlic breadcrumbs and a lovely Midnight Moon cheese from Holland,” he said.
Risotto is made with parmesan rinds, winding up with some surprising smokiness.
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“We add smoked tomatoes in there and some pimentón de la vera,” he said.
A half roast chicken can easily feed three or four.
The secret weapon? A drizzle of roasted chicken fat.
“We brine it, we roast it in the best way we can and get the skin golden and crackling, and then make a lovely, vibrant green sauce that has dill, chive, shallot, crème fraiche to accompany it,” he said.
Thankfully, some creative sides, rather than the usual Brussels sprouts and beets seen everywhere else. Take the cucumber salad for instance.
“We mix them with a buttermilk poppyseed dressing and lemon zest, and then we make a seasoning similar to an everything bagel seasoning, but we add fried Marcona almonds in there for kind of a meaty crunch,” he said.
A pair of flattened and fried artichokes makes for a crunchy, earthy side too.
“We dress them with a preserved lemon aioli, cracked pepper and fried rosemary,” said Carnovale.
And don’t feel like you have to make it a big night out. You can just as easily grab a well-made cocktail and a few small bites in the casual bar up front. No judgement.
“I think that we’re able to capture a lot of moments for folks,” said Carnovale.
Here's where you can go:
1639 S. Wabash Ave.
213-320-3100
