Food & Drink

The Food Guy: Perilla Steakhouse rooted in Korean culture

Perilla Korean American Steakhouse, 225 N. Wabash Ave., is situated in the newly remodeled Lotte Hotel just south of the River

NBC Universal, Inc.

There is no shortage of steakhouses in Chicago, but a new one in the Loop takes a very different approach, according to NBC Chicago’s Food Guy Steve Dolinsky.

There are no shortage of steakhouses in Chicago, but a new one in the Loop takes a very different approach, according to NBC Chicago's Food Guy Steve Dolinsky.

From the team who brought you Perilla Korean American Fare in the West Loop comes Perilla Korean American Steakhouse, in the newly remodeled Lotte Hotel just south of the River. Like their first place, the emphasis is on Korean flavors, but with a twist.

“We wanted to add to the steakhouse scene something unique and different,” said Andrew Lim, the executive chef of Perilla Steakhouse.

Fatty A5 Wagyu beef is torched for a “first bite” starter with caviar and chive, alongside another bite featuring crab and trout roe. Monkey bread is warm and soft, served with assertive gochujang honey butter. Seafood pancakes are traditional, embedded with tons of scallions; less traditional, a Kalguksu Bolognese.

“So Kalguksu is a very traditional noodle cut in Korea. It’s a traditional Bolognese that we kind of tweaked with some Korean ingredients as well: wagyu beef that’s ground. We have tons of herbs, perilla, bay leaf, parsley, garlic, onions, carrots; some fish sauce, some soy sauce.”

And don’t forget the shower of Parmesan. Kimchi fried rice is another traditional dish, but here, they’ll add some smoked blue cheese along with that cracked egg. And stews, like Kimchi Jjigae, are fortified with heritage pork belly and soft tofu.

Steakwise, you can try beef a la carte, or in a complete set.

“In Korean cuisine, there are a lot of different cuts that we use that aren’t necessarily used here in this country,” said Lim.

Kalbi, or short ribs, are perhaps the most popular. In the Premium Steakhouse Set, you’ll see four cuts: Prime kalbi, Marinated Prime kalbi, Wagyu Hanger and Wagyu Bavette. They’ll all be cooked for you on the tabletop grill – perfect for your Instagram feed. But more important, they offer a complete departure from the usual strip steak or filet experience.

“As delicious as they are, they have their place, and to be honest, these days they’re a little bit boring.”

The small cuts cook quickly, then it’s up to you to season and eat.

“One is Gireumjang, which is sesame oil, salt and pepper; and the other one is our Ssamjang, which is soybean paste. I use both of them; it just gives such complexity and deep flavor,” said Lim. “We throw in kimchi, of course you can’t forget the perilla leaf, and then all in one bite – just a bomb of flavor.”

Here's where you can go:

Perilla Korean American Steakhouse

225 N. Wabash Ave.

312-236-9300

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