Thursday is the first night of Hanukkah, which means NBC 5's Food Guy Steve Dolinsky is cooking with oil.
The miracle of an ancient temple, staying lit for eight nights with just a small amount of oil, sets the stage for a lot of frying, mostly in vegetable oil. And considering how tough the deli business is, it’s equally impressive visiting an 80 year-old institution, followed by a spry 60 year-old one, to see how they’ve been keeping tradition alive.
There are few secrets to the potato pancakes – or latkes – at 80 year-old Manny’s, the cafeteria style deli in the South Loop that’s never changed its menu. Grated potatoes, onions, eggs and seasoning are thoroughly combined by hand, then simply fried until crisp in a deep pool of oil.
“Always made ‘em in our cast iron pans, and a bit thicker and it’s tradition here. During Hanukkah, it’s obviously the oil, so everybody wants them,” said owner Dan Raskin.
About as thick as the Peoria phonebook, they’re available year-round as a side with their massive, two-fisted sandwiches, but this time of year, a lot of folks get them with the requisite apple sauce and sour cream. And that original recipe is never going to change says Raskin, the fourth generation owner.
“Just from our experience, the best way to do everything is the way we’ve always done it,” said Raskin.
“It’s a little crazy,” said Bette Dworkin, owner of Kaufman’s Bagel and Delicatessen.
The Food Guy
How crazy is it at 60 year-old Kaufman’s Bagel and Deli in Skokie right now? Latkes are available year-round, but they’ll do triple the business this week.
“We do sweet potato latkes, scallion latkes, veggie latkes, sometimes mushroom latkes,” she said.
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The basic recipe hasn’t changed: potatoes, onions, eggs and potato flour plus seasoning. Scooped, smashed then deep-fried in large skillets, they’re as wide as a CD, thick and yet still tender. Another popular item this week – sufganiyot – or as Dworkin describes them, Jewish paczki, essentially jelly donuts dusted in powdered sugar.
She says a corned beef sandwich is a popular pairing with the latkes, but don’t overlook their outstanding smoked sable, available year-round.
“There’s always smoked fish demand!” said Dworkin.
Make sure to call ahead to see if you can time it to arrive when they pull the sable out of the smoker. If you make your own, add a Granny Smith apple and a little bit of celery root to bump up the flavor a bit.
Here's where you can go:
1141 S. Jefferson St.
312-939-2855
4905 W. Dempster St., Skokie
847-677-6190
